Ode to the empanada

The British have their pasties, the Italian's their calzones, and South America have the empanada. These tasty morsels have a thick, smooth, pastry wrapped around a variety of fillings. The pastry is quite dense, not flakey or crumbly, and works beautifully to absorb the juices and flavours from the ingredients within. Generally savoury, the selection of fillings is endless: traditional 'carne' (or meat), 'pollo' (chicken), 'queso' (cheese), seafood, crab, ham and cheese, the list goes on. Flavours vary slightly in different regions also. We had amazing prawn and tuna empanadas on Easter Island, an incredibly juicy chicken version in Bolivia (so good I had juice running down my arm), and a variety called Caprese in Argentina containing tomato, basil and mozzarella. Baked or fried, I adore these things. They are delicious, in a wicked way, and are largely responsible for the tightening I have noticed around the waist of my jeans of late. So naughty, but so irresistible.

Dulce de leche

This is just a jar of trouble. This little delight originated when a housemaid left sweetened milk heating on the stove, resulting in this gooey, caramel spread. Served with bread, pancakes, cookies, chocolates, ice cream and flan this is delicious at any time. I'm partial to a spoon or two straight from the jar.

Matè

Throughout Argentina this a common sight. Matè is the national beverage, and many locals never leave home without their favourite matè and a thermos. The drink it self is quite a bitter herb tea, but the best part about matè is the ritual. Matè is for sharing. The tea (yerba) is packed tightly into the cup, and a little water added to begin with. The metal straw is put in and the cup filled with water. This generally allows a few sips from the cup before it is refilled and passed to the next person. It is a really social and comforting practice.

Asado

The asado, or barbecue, is a proud Argentinian tradition, and the way many friends and family spend their weekends. We were very lucky to go to a friends farm in Mar del Plata for this amazing spread. The asado is grilled for a good while over hot coals, in this instance the fire was next to the grill and the coals tea ferret across) and results in tender and juicy meat.
The meal begins with 'picadas' a selection of meat, cheese, salami, nuts and bread.
Next comes - chorizos (sausages), chinchunlines (intestines), kidneys and morcilla (black pudding). This first course was greatly anticipated, and we were closely observed as we tried everything. The sausages were served in a little piece of fresh baguette (chori pan) the chinchunlines are generally cooked to crispy, but mine was a little chewy and just a bit too strange for me. The kidneys were quite tender and tasty however, but pushing my food boundaries a little. This part of the meal can often include other treats, such as glands, if they are available.
Then came the 'asado' itself. Beautifully cooked, we were treated to some amazing beef, and pork cooked with lemon. Amazing. And if all this wasn't enough, there were also side dishes of
And if all tha wasn't enough, there was potato and sweet potato cooked on the grill, salad, bread, and capsicums cooked with an egg inside. All this, accompanied by some great Argentinian red wine made for an truly enjoyable Saturday afternoon in the country.

Rogel at El Condor coffee shop, Mar del Plata

Oh my God. This may just be the naughtiest thing I have ever eaten. My 'rogel' cake was constructed of, dare I say, 4 layers of thin, cripsy pastry layered with dulce de leche, topped with a good few centimetres of light, fluffy merengue. I had a sugar headache immediately after this one. However, I have finally realised how Argentinian's manage to stay out so late at night - have one of these and a good coffee about 6pm, dinner at 10, then you're good to keep going til the early hours of the morning, 

Aaron's chocolate concoction there at the back had a layer of chocolate ckae, deluce de leche, a creamy mousse, then topped with chocolate ganache. Too rich for me though... 

Almeurzo a casa de Mariano

Following the delicious Milanesa's, we had some typical Argentinian sweets. A thick slice of semi soft cheese, served with (on the far left) what I think was Argentine quince paste. In the centre, the orange one, is 'dulce de batata' a jelly made with sweet potato. I was dubious about this one when Lucas first told me about it, but having seen it (and been served it) I gave it a go. It was actually very nice. Similar texture to the quince past, but a little smoother, and eaten with the cheese.

We were so lucky to have made such generous friends to invite us into their homes and share food with us. This was a lovely lunch together.

Almeurzo a casa de Mariano (lunch at Mariano's house)- Milanesa

We have been so fortunate as to make some lovely new frineds in Mar del Plata, Argentina. Mariano graciously invited us for lunch at his home today to share a typical Argentinian meal - Milanesa's. Milanesa's are similar to the dish we know as schnitzel. These tender little beef fillets were cooked covered in herbs and breadcrumbs and fried. Here they were served with mached potato, pumpkin and sweet potato, plus salad. They were really delieious. 

In the background of this photo is the remnants of a cheese dish served with grissini which was a soft cheese, similar to cream cheese, covered with black and white sesame seeds and soy sauce. Also very tasty. 

Joaquina's torta de compleanos

While in Argentina we have had the great pleasure of attending our dear friend, Lucas, niece Joaquina's 3rd birthday dinner. After some delicious nibbles (mentioned below) came Joaqi's calls for 'torta, torta' and to the sounds of the well known tune 'que los cumplas feliz' (happy birthday) in came this amazing lemon pie made by Joaqi's beautiful mum, Mercedes.

Mercede's delicious tortas

Not only did Mercedes make the incredible lemon meringue pie, but this amazing chocolate concoction. This 'torta dulce de leche con chocolate' had a thin crisp crust, then a middle layer of creamy, rich caramely dulce de leche, and topped with chocolate mousse. This one had been frozen, so the mousse layer was like ice cream, yet the caramel was still all oozy and delicious.
I had so much trouble deciding whether to taste this or my all time favorite, lemon pie, that I was so relieved when Mercedes said "Have both... I always have to have both". Both were amazing.

Colita de cuadril sandwiches

Joaquina's birthday dinner included these amazing little morsels. Sandwiches in small fresh buns with these tender slices of beef, called colita de cuadril, fresh tomato, lettuce and mayonnaise.
I love communal eating. Sharing of food, everyone helping themselves and, even with a slight language barrier in this case, the joy and comfort of this meal was clearly shared by all.

Alfajores

Oh the Alfajores, the reason my jeans seem to be getting tighter by the second. I am not usually a sweet tooth, much more a savoury girl, but these little treats are just too good to pass up on. This version of the national cookie originated here in Mar del Plata, and is sold widely in the country and overseas now. The alfajored is two biscuits, sandwiched together with dulce de leche (caramel), and covered with a thin layer of merengue (as shown) or dark chocolate. Both exceptionally good, however after some extensive research, I have decided I prefer the merengue coated version. 

I have been informed that the alfajores change slightly varying on which region you are in in Argentia. In Salta, in the North of the country, the biscuits were quite short tasting, I think there they are made with corn flour there, so are quite light and crumbly, and generally oated with icing sugar. The Havanna version here the biscuits are a little darker, and denser. So good it's bad.

Lomitos

Typical sandwiches eaten throughout the country, Lomitos are Argentina's version of the steak sandwich. These ones we had in Mar del Plata had very thin beef (lomo) steaks, ham, cheese, tomato and a fried egg (which I went without). They were delicious. They steak was really tender, the buns fresh, but they were enormous and we all needed a nap after.

Tacos de trucha, Copacabana

These little tacos where a real delight. Fresh trout for Lake Titicaca, cooked with vegetables and some mild spices (I think oregano, onion, garlic) wrapped in fresh tortillas and served with homemade guacamole and picante sauce of tomatoes and chilli. Delicious washed down with an icy cold local beer.

Treats of the Inca Trail

I have to admit I was a little concerned about the food we would encounter during the Inca Trail trek. I know now I needn´t have worried. The food was good, and in abundance. Our days started with pancakes, toast, porridge (quinoa and oatmeal), and coca tea. Lunch was a banquet including soup, then rice, a meat dish, chicken or fish, poatoes and salad. Always a few types of potatoes, always at least one thing battered and fried, always plenty for everyone. Lunch included a sweet of the likes of banana with dulce de leche, or a choclate soup one day (a bit weird, but good). 

We´d be greeted in the evening by hot chocolate or more coca tea, and mountains of popcorn and cookies, before repeating the a similar lunch time feast again for dinner. I haven´t seen so many types of potato dishes since I lived in Ireland.

All the food was well prepared, no one got sick, and somehow the porters managed to cart all the stuff up there for us. Amazing experience, and possibly the only 4 day hike I´ve ever done where I think I actually gained weight!

Chicha morale

I was a little dubious when our land lady, Gloria, produced this little concoction for lunch one day. Juice made from purple corn. However, it was delicious. Heavilt ladened with sugar and cinnamon, and smelling like my Mum´s house at Christmas. It didn´t even taste like corn.

There are other versions of Chicha around in Peru, but those versions are alcoholic that is a bit like a homebrew made and served for locals (I didn´t try that one however, as the versions we saw were kind of pink and fermented looking, sitting in gallon drums on the side on the Inca trail so we let that one go).

Ricotto Relleno (stuffed peppers)

Ingredients:

Diced onion

Minced beef

Garlic

Diced vegetables (peas, carrots, beans etc)

Flour

1 egg

Water

Oil

1. To prepare peppers, slice down one side only and remove seeds. Rinse for 1 minute in cold water then allow to dry fully on paper towel. 

2. Cook onion and garlic in some vegetable oil  until softened, then add beef and brown.

3. In a seperate bowl, combine about 1 cup of flour with one egg, then add small amounts of water until a thick batter has been formed (maybe about 1/4 cup in all). Season well with salt and set aside.

4. When beef is browned, add vegetables, season well, and cook for a further 2 minutes.

5. When filling in ready, spoon into peppers (they will loof like they have burst open but that is all part of the plan).

6. Heat a few centimetres of vegetable oil in frying.

7. When oil is ready, spoon the batter over the side of the pepper with the opening, and fry batter side down for 3-5minutes or until batter has become golden. Then turn and fry for a further few minutes.

8. Drain on paper towel, and then enjoy.

Note: This recipe came froma cooking class in Spanish, so quantities and direct ingredients are estimated.

The 'cuy' experience

Indulging in our guinea pig and alpaca dinner.

The 'cuy' experience

Cuy is a local delicacy in Peru, that we were keen to taste in our time here. I was initially apprehensive due largely to the fact that ´cuy´ is guinea pig. After a recommendation from our Spanish school, Amauta School in Cusco, we went to a great little restaurant ´Kusi Cuy´ and ordered the house special - roast cuy. It took 45min to prepare, and was then delivered to our table in all the grandeur you see above. They then whisked it away, and returned it in more attackable pieces with the advice ¨Cuy is best eaten with your hands¨. And the verdict? Muy rico (very delicious). The meat (what there was of it) was juicy and tender. It tasted and looked a bit like a cross between rabbit and chicken, not really light but not really dark meat. It has been stuffed with selection of herbs which added a subtle flavour to the meat. It was really, really good, and served with tamale (cornmeal steamed in a corn husk) and some sort other fried treat that was doughy on the outside and stuffed with meat, spices and vegetables, a little like a Peruvian version of the pork bun perhaps.

We didn´t stop there and, as we were sharing the cuy, we also ordered a serve of the alpaca kebabs, which came as skewered slices of alpaca marinated in something amazing and cooked to perfection, slightly oink and really tender. All round a completely pleasant surprise.  

La comida tipica Chilena

La comida tipica Chilena - the food typical of Chile. We went to stay in Santa Cruz, in the Colchagua Valley wine region about 3 hours from Santiago. Finally what I had been waiting for, some real Chilean food. We had been searching high and low, and small a diner called ´El Rancho`delivered. Pictured here are ´humitas´in the foreground and ´pastel de choclo´in the background. ´Humitas´are cornmeal dough mixed with meat and spices then steamed or baked in corn husks (aka tamales). These little morsels were steamed and very tasty.

´Pastel de choclo´is a maize casserole, with beef or chicken inside. Generally there is the casserole underneath and the corn layer on top all nice and crunchy, however this version had been microwaved, so was a little soggy on top, but tasted pretty good. It had both chicken and beef, and hard boiled eggs, which also come in pastel de choclo but I wasn´t aware before hand. You should probably know, I have a weird thing about food with funny textures eg. eggs, sashimi, custard, anything too gelatinous or mushy. So I dodged the eggs, and the rest was quite yummy. with the chicken falling off the bone in a onion gravy. Aaron had another version in Santiago, which had the delicios crunchy top, but the corn part was really, really sweet which goes against my other food aversion - sweet food with salty food together.

So now you know a little more about Chilean food, and a little more about me. We have just arrived in Cusco, Peru, where local delicacies include Alpaca and ´cuy´which is guniea pig, so stay tuned for the good, the bad and the pushing of boundaries. xx

The delights of Rapa Nui... In pictures

The most insanely delicious tuna empandas.